Hong Kong

   My short hop flights are now 3-4 hours.
Singapore to Hong Kong was a short hop.
The airport is huge and maybe a half mile walk from the gate to the main "arrival hall"
   It's great that passport check and customs are very speedy. It was only 10 pm when i arrived but then my only thoughts were about my head on my pillow.  The old crusty body is not used to this. <
   The smart planner booked the Regal Airport Hotel - another 1/4 mile of indoor walkways  from the hall.
   They liked me there - club floor, big room and a surprising ocean view when I woke up.  It was a Hotels.com discount room.
    My flight to Tokyo was 1 am Friday and it took some time to get my gears in gear so by noon, after checking my bags, it was time to check out the big city.
   The Airport Express is a fast, smooth train with 2 stops between the airport and Hong Kong all that in 23 minutes.
Ticket price for same day round trip - 100
HKD - $ 12.80 us. From the Arrival Hall the train is about 200 yards down a ramp - very convenient...and they run every 12 minutes. Part of the track is above ground so you can see plenty.
   Got downtown around 1pm At the big transit center and 2 blocks away wad the ferry pier and the bus.  I like those tours - this one included a Peak Tram ride up Victoria Mountain- about 1000 vertical feet of tram ride...

What a lovely view...if it weren't for the smog.
  And as part of the package...an Aberdeen Harbor tour on a sampan.

 I hopped off the bus to check out the beach at Repulse Bay.

After 2 laps around the city and a very interesting 6 hour visit my batery meter read Empty....
   I left New York 10 days ago and put 12 000 miles on the vapor trail-ometer in 4 different countries running purely on adrenalin.
   I found a very nice, relaxing and expensive restaurant on the harbor pier with a panoramic view of the Kowloon night skyline...very impressive - even with a thick smog filter. A nice last vapory view.
   Dinner, train ride back to the airport, got my bags and waited for 1 am to arrive ( while charging all my batteries...but my own)
    Hong Kong is massive. And tall.  Not as new looking overall as Singapore, but with a lot of new construction mixed in with old acid rain charred buildings.

Hong Kong is an island across the bay is Kowloon - the mainland.  Both areas are growing as Hong Kong gets lots of attention and investment.
   It's not as clean as Singapore as it is bigger and older with a number of run down areas. With 7.2 million people there that need to be somewhere, mass transit rules.  Trains. Metro, busses up the wazoo - big buses and "light" buses - trolleys, harbor ferries, trams and the longest outdoor escalator in the world. Goes down until 10 am then goes up till midnight.
  The people have a taste for expensive.  All the high end retail is everywhere. Hong Kong has many very poor working people - but there is a lot of rich too - enough to be attractive to all those expensive stores.
  It is a very pretty island with most of the land undeveloped.  The bad stuff is the air and water pollution.  That air us so thick you can feel it.  The bays and harbors are dirty - lotsa flotsam and smelling like diesel.
   Everyone I met was nice and friendly.  Never had a bit of language issues.
   I only say a very tiny amount of the history culture and atractions...it would  take a couple weeks to get a real feel for the place.
   I'm writing this in Tokyo at Narita Airport slogging thru a 4 hour layover for the final 13 hour vapor trail from Tokyo to New York.  
    Woke up 8 am Thursday in Hong Kong
(7 pm Wednesday est)  and some time Friday nite -est) I'll start the process of sleeping again....wish I could sleep on planes.The All Adrenalin Last Lap of the Round - the World Tour takes off at 11 am tokyo time ( 9 pm est)
  Don't call me until Monday....est

Pm

,

Singapore

  Leaving India at 10 pm Monday - 4 hours later i was in Singapore....half way home.
Not like Kolkata. Not like Dubai.
  Got to Singapore in wee hours -and waited at the airport for sunrise so I could see the city in the light on the half hour trip into the city.
   It's quite beautiful at sunrise ...for a city.

   Modern architecture.  Creative design.
Interesting skyline texture...WOW.
Big biz money is as good as oil money.
In the darkness as we approached the runway we flew over the bay - I could see hundreds of cargo ships - some loaded some empty - all waiting for dispatch.
That says it about here - and city gets its rewards from enterprise....Too bad the workers don't get a bigger cut.
  Stories of success and prosperity are not as much fun to cover...just fun to feel.
I feel so much better here.  In 2 days roaming the streets I did not hear a single horn beep.  Not a single homeless person, stray dog or turd on the street to step around
 It smells good ....except when I get the back wind on the back seat of the top less hop on hop off tour bus.
  Singapore was delightfully lacking in pain and vibrant in color and newness. Very relaxing. My hotel - Holiday Inn Express was a smart move... nice room, great free breakfast buffet, beautiful rooftop pool. 

They let me check in at 7am and checkout 4 pm the next day.
   I have to say...I like being a platinum member in the IHG program. They treat me well
  I visited Dubai for 41 hours.  Kolkata for  4 days. Singapore for 36 hours and now Hong Kong for 27 hours ...
  Not much time to get to know any Singaporians but here the people on the streets seem to be less approachable rarely making eye contact. Everyone  working is friendly in the hotel and stores...maybe because they aren't hustling and few are truly needy. Maybe that chases some engagement opportunities away...
  The Airport was huge, airy and delightful. Passport and customs a breeze.
Food was fantastic in the meals I had provided a better string of dancing taste buds than I ever had in any  5 tries of dining out in USA... Campy tourist spot dining is as expensive as New York.  Side street dining is way less.
  Toured the city - 3 laps around town saw it all  and chilled in the roof top jacuzzi and pool....until a wicked storm chased me under cover
   Got the LA times crossword done in the jacuzzi overlooking the lower rooftops of Singapore, and the stories of big ones before the storm broke...one of my fav moments....
  The city is a vibrant meld of history and diversity and rich in culture mixed in with new and sexy.
  Workers aren't paid well but they are provided for.  Most of the housing is public - 85% actually. Govt subsidized but allowing private ownership.
  Traffic is very light for a city of 5.5 million.  Cars are discouraged by cost. Very high import tax making purchase expensive. You need a permit to own one that could cost $6000 a year. Another $6000 a year for city driving tolls....
But ... mass transit is spectacular. A huge metro system, bus lines with many stops and frequent runs. It is a very easy city to get around .
  It was a delight to visit - so glad I did
Well leave this vapor trail with some pictures.....off to Hong Kong..

More to come - check back later


  
  
  

Trailing reflection on Kolkata

I waited a day or so before I gathered final thoughts on Kolkata seeing if time might soften the view. It is one of the poorest big cities in the world - most certainly in India. A neglected child and ignored economy has been very slow to 
catch up with the rest of the world.  
   But there is hope for change and some investment by the government and business making for new opportunity. But change where things have been etched in the old stones takes time....cultural time...generational time and economic time as the wheels just start to grind faster to give Kolkata some new dream and forward motion.
  Unfortunately some of the holes people are in may be too deep to climb out....any time soon.  The new investments seem to be more focused outside the inner city closer to the airport where the holes are shallower.
   Mean time my experiences of witnessing so many people living on the streets in abject poverty where 40 cents a day is the average income for the bottom dwellers.  The government claims there's 77,000 homeless....they did not define home or less.  It feels like that density has more mass.

  This woman lives under a piece of wood. She found a blanket and was stowing it there
                                      --------
 There's not much hope for them.  Utpal is a few steps up - his income buys food and pays bills.- he has big hopes for his now 4 year old daughter - who is already attending school.  And if the wheels turn faster...and don't stop she will have a better chance.
   There is a lot of increasingly ubiquitous old run down character mixed in with pure ugly.

  The deteriorating buildings are everywhere. There's trash and blight and waste strewn about in vacant patches inside and outside of buildings.   Walking while looking down on many side streets is advisable to avoid stepping in the human waste that was dropped by those with no where else to go....

 and all the dogs snoozing instead of chasing all the rats scurrying about. But then looking down prevents seeing and maybe bumping into the guys relieving themselves on a tree or building corner or stepping out of the public restroom....

  I thought this was isolated behavior ... but it happened a lot and I mostly walked a couple mile perimeter of my hotel, the destination part of the city.
   The beggars, physically marred, carrying babies, old and worn, broken and sad hang out in the upscale areas because as Willie Sutton knew. That's where the money is.
  When I walked down the streets where folks slept, cooked their meals, bathed in the water outlets, hung out and lived in their less than meager trappings - no one begged. Not even near the banks of the Hooligy (Ganges) river where so many congregate to clean in the dirty river.  It was odd. Sticking out like a big white sore thumb, I was not approached. But I was every few feet on Park St. and at times it took a block or more to shake the person tugging at my sleeve and mumbling some non english plea.
 I felt bad for not giving. Other than not having less than a 100 rupee bill or charge cards I felt like there was no excuse for me not to help people who live like this. But they do and it's not being fixed.
   On a side note... in New Delhi the police are looking into DNA testing the begging women carting babies.  There is a cute baby market where you can pick up a baby for show to boost the begging process.  Babies often look different than the "moms" so the test will determine gene match - it may not stop begging but it may stem the cute baby market -  
  But really, it sounds like ripoff American public policy approaches to solving real problems - who is emulating who here....
  So... like I said - no fixes in sight.
It was well worth the trip...crusty oysters off set a bit by the pearls and definitely a memorable experience ... of which I only touched on in these vapor trails...dull musings from around the world.

Driving Mr. Leo

Im in Singapore now - Kolkata memories being erased and replaced by new jet trails. But before I move too far east I still want to share a Bengal reflection while it's still alive in my head.

 Getting around Kolkata is pretty easy...for the locals.  Cabs, busses, trams, subway, autoricks (3 wheeled stinky gas powered rickshaws) regular people powered rickshaws, horse drawn buggies, motor cycles and mostly shoe leather and bare feet are the vehicles.

  Millions of people are moving all the time all day and night. I'm sure they are going somewhere but it's a challenge to get somewhere for a visitor. .... but I had Utpal my BFF driver.

Utpal has been a driver for 11 years...he just finished his schooling this week. He's 28 has a family and has a job that pays the bills.
"Driving used to be my hobby when I was young , now it is my profession" he says with a high chinned, tilted head nod and
 expression of pride.  He started driving at 12.
   There are very few noticeable street signs, bus markings are often noted in bengali, english speaking cabbies are chancy as I did find out that my sign language and louder english pronunciation of the destination doesn't work well.. People crowd and hang off the rails of busses and trams and jam 4 or 5 people into autoricks made for 3 short people...it's tense...and very crusty.

  So Utpal is my transportation jewel.
Motorized vehicles seem only to have two functioning components on Kolkata streets -  the gas pedal and the horn. 
  The streets are pure confined chaos - sometimes encased in wrought iron rails to keep the chaos off the sidewalks. 

Stinky, smoky fumed, honking, zigging and  zagging vehicles weave endlessly inches apart....and I never see dents. Absolutely amazing-- and for me a white knuckle inducing travel experience..
  English left side driving rules prevail...on the street and when walking on sidewalks.. Many one way streets change direction at certain times. But I never see any sign to say when. It is wildly confusing for me.
   Utpal is a delightful soft spoken quietly confident man of few words - most are informative or pure gold nuggets of his life observations and tourist s
   I told him he was my hero - he has mastered the streets and all the process I fail to see. He has a sixth sense of presence - he is in his energy field and totally aware of all of the masses speeding around it. He has a Jedi style brain connection with all the drivers in his field and seems to be able to anticipate their moves without looking side to side, up, down, or back - just straight ahead. He corrects his path smoothly and precisely and zips in and out of traffic holes effortlessly - just amazing!!
 I said I could never drive in this traffic and he is very skilled - "Thank you Mr Leo"
  "And what kind of car do you have." He asked.  "A Dodge Ram pickup." I said.
The puzzled Utpal said. "I am not familiar"
There are no Rams on wheels in Kolkata just ones in the mutton stew line. The taxi types here are mostly the now- defunct  Hindustani Motors Ambssador line - the ones I need to be pried into.

So I explained the pickup concept and he feigned understanding...
  He then asked, " Could your driver drive well here?"  I said to his surprise, " I drive. I don't need a driver, I'm retired and do everything myself now." He nodded and understood that concept....
   Utpal and I both share a bond in our lack of understanding of each others lives and environs and share the quest to find out more.
  He is a proud Bengali. He sees no more future in his life than driving - but feels fortunate his job has lifted him out of the Krusty Oyster hole most of the people linger in.
  A good life here for many is one with fewer struggles to stay alive and more certainty about the next meal and a place to sleep.  Smiles can come from that low bar by our standards -  but happiness can be a relative concept depending on where you are...
  Utpal got me from the airport to my hotel and carted me to events. Waited while I partied and got me home safely..with a confident foot on the gas...and no horn....i truly appreciated his skills and delightful company - my regret is that i may have under stood only half of his rich commentary but got all the flavor of my driving master... Utpal Mondval ...another Kolkata pearl

moving on east

After 4 days in Kolkata, wedding, touring, partying, writing, relaxing and reflecting on where the first 10,000 miles of vapor trails took me it was time to travel east...again.
This 7 mile high trail went from Kolkata to Singapore - a mere 3.5 hour flight over a couple thousand miles....tap the easy button
   Kathy is a Windsor friend of mine and the newly weds and came to the wedding. She camped out at the Park Hotel where I stayed. Over a few days we were tour buddies as we both witnessed the crusty Kolkata oyster and the pearls.
On my departure day - I bid a long farewell while she bought me dinner at Peter Cat -  

a hot spot restaurant near the hotel.... that
was given the stamp of approval by my pal Utpal.
  It was very good food - I had fried rice - grilled bhetki fish- and a chicken soup. A feast for 10 us dollars. - Thanks Kathy - my best meal in india- your treat.
  6pm was my Hotel departure time for the airport trip. Dinner and the short walk back got us there right in time to be greeted by my fav driver.  
  A greeting hand shake for Utpal, a hug and a wave for Kathy and I was off to the east.
  The airport is about 30 kilometers from the hotel.  It took a good 90 minutes to get there. In the dark, Kolkata ' s crust is softened by lots of pretty lights, mist of which go dark after the Christmas lighting season ends.

  It still looked crusty - but I did see more of the new developing area New Town closer to the airport.  Out here the shiny new hotels, housing, stores etc contrasts sharper with all the old crust.
  In the city there is way more old crust vs older crust.
  Utpal is a nice guy - he finished his Bengali life story and pointed out spots of optimism and new beginnings with pride and hope things will get better there.
  At arrival we had a hug and farewell. Ill miss his wit and skills.  With the hug he happily accepted my last tip ' a 1000 rupee bill for his efforts.  It's only 16 dollars but almost 3 days pay for him.
  I had a few Rupees left hoping to grab a bite and a souvenir - but the all new airport hasn't installed retail yet - says a lot about how fast things move.  Utpal is young - maybe in his lifetime
   Singapore Airways flight was nice and easy. Arrived at 4:30 local time in this magnificent huge airport and proceeded to breeze through passport check and an empty space calked CUSTOMS - Welcome to Singapore.  A truly happy vapor trail landing.
 I chilled a bit at the airport waiting a bit for sun to rise from the further east so I could see things on my way to the Holiday Inn Express Singapore Clark Quay.
   It worked - I saw a beautiful place at sunrise - 

oh so different than Kolkata. ..... way more gem ...than crust ......that I could see.

My new friend Subil

The New Market - also known as the Hogg market was built by the British in the 1870's
It was the epicenter of commerce near the rail yards for everyone to come buy local and imported goods.

Today it is still a buyers market and it is hard to escape without a purchase....not necessarily because you can find most everything you want ...or never needed..but the sales pressure by the vendors to many is unsurmountable.

"Just come look at my store" says my newest BFF Subil.  " No need to buy --- just look " ....yep...
Subil is a shop agent - scout - lure. Nice, quietly pleasant....and persistent.
His stores are way in the deepest bowels of the cavernous Indian style flea market. Not a quick easy stroll thru the maze of stinky narrow hallways and acres of tiny booths and shops overflowing with stuff.
Subil figured out what the shopping mission items were and skillfully lured us to his spots. He was a master of keeping us on the hook even though we  tried to wiggle off his line and explore on our own. Didn't happen

BFF Subil is on the left

An obvious secret to the agent success is to target the most likely buyers --3 tall white guys and an Indian woman fits the profile of a fat wallet bearer. Subil's skill is to hook us before any of the other agents did...and he is fast..but once Subil hlooad us the rest of them peeled away.
  Once we got to the stores it was hard to escape with all the Rupees we had upon entering.
  Luckily I mastered a skill from watching congressional Republicans in action - just say no...no .... no Subil no.....
   Luckily our agent....Dr Buju - a world famous social psychologist used her mind bending skills to get Subil's clerks to lower the prices and be happy about low price sales for us '- well maybe that happened....maybe not...

   In the Indian economy if you don't hustle u lose. It takes real high energy, persistence, tact, skill, and looking forward to make it work - and you are lucky or a master if you can lift yourself above the norm.
Subil is a master - I can't tell you how it's working for him - but I know I don't have what it takes to survive. In the beaming core energizing that big fat oyster crusted hustle rush you can find another sparkly Kolkata pearl....the glowing wafting vapors of human spirit and unyielding determination.
Pretty inspiring..

Photo wisps - A few pearls

It is very hard to explain my fondness for Kolkata. I have never seen or been to anywhere like it....but I know there are places that can beat this place ...in a more economically dark and destitute way.
 As a travel destination it's intoxicatingly fascinating.  Each day I ventured out aroused more curiosity to energize the next adventure.
  It is a very tired, crusty, worn down, rugged textured, dirt poor city with a smattering of sparlkles.   Like an oyster - pretty ugly on the outside sheltering an occasional lustrous pearl.
  The gems are far out numbered by the crust...but I found a few.
  Topped by Al and Buju's wedding. -

A colorful event shining in energy and light rich with colors and delight inside a facility that sheltered the gem from the crusty KolkataI'm streets.

Note the lovely traditional flower decorations - they can be purchased at the flower market

Every day flower vendors are at work at the flower market stringing thousands of marigold and other flower buds to make miles and miles of living decorations.

The  New Market is a beehive, buzzing with buyers and sellers creating it's own unique din and

hard to escape without buying something

 or seeing something with its own unique character

And my friends know how to have a rock'in  party at the Kolkata Rowing Club

Most of us were feasting on Chinese food - cooked by Indian chefs with their own spice racks - while the energetic crowd tore up the dance floor.

The city looks so different at night as darkness masks the crust and lights on all types add a nighttime glow that softens all the real hard edges here

There are plenty dark crusty images - well get to that vapor trail soon