Getting around Kolkata is pretty easy...for the locals. Cabs, busses, trams, subway, autoricks (3 wheeled stinky gas powered rickshaws) regular people powered rickshaws, horse drawn buggies, motor cycles and mostly shoe leather and bare feet are the vehicles.
Millions of people are moving all the time all day and night. I'm sure they are going somewhere but it's a challenge to get somewhere for a visitor. .... but I had Utpal my BFF driver.
Utpal has been a driver for 11 years...he just finished his schooling this week. He's 28 has a family and has a job that pays the bills.
"Driving used to be my hobby when I was young , now it is my profession" he says with a high chinned, tilted head nod and
expression of pride. He started driving at 12.
There are very few noticeable street signs, bus markings are often noted in bengali, english speaking cabbies are chancy as I did find out that my sign language and louder english pronunciation of the destination doesn't work well.. People crowd and hang off the rails of busses and trams and jam 4 or 5 people into autoricks made for 3 short people...it's tense...and very crusty.
So Utpal is my transportation jewel.
Motorized vehicles seem only to have two functioning components on Kolkata streets - the gas pedal and the horn.
The streets are pure confined chaos - sometimes encased in wrought iron rails to keep the chaos off the sidewalks.
Stinky, smoky fumed, honking, zigging and zagging vehicles weave endlessly inches apart....and I never see dents. Absolutely amazing-- and for me a white knuckle inducing travel experience..
English left side driving rules prevail...on the street and when walking on sidewalks.. Many one way streets change direction at certain times. But I never see any sign to say when. It is wildly confusing for me.
Utpal is a delightful soft spoken quietly confident man of few words - most are informative or pure gold nuggets of his life observations and tourist s
I told him he was my hero - he has mastered the streets and all the process I fail to see. He has a sixth sense of presence - he is in his energy field and totally aware of all of the masses speeding around it. He has a Jedi style brain connection with all the drivers in his field and seems to be able to anticipate their moves without looking side to side, up, down, or back - just straight ahead. He corrects his path smoothly and precisely and zips in and out of traffic holes effortlessly - just amazing!!
I said I could never drive in this traffic and he is very skilled - "Thank you Mr Leo"
"And what kind of car do you have." He asked. "A Dodge Ram pickup." I said.
The puzzled Utpal said. "I am not familiar"
There are no Rams on wheels in Kolkata just ones in the mutton stew line. The taxi types here are mostly the now- defunct Hindustani Motors Ambssador line - the ones I need to be pried into.
So I explained the pickup concept and he feigned understanding...
He then asked, " Could your driver drive well here?" I said to his surprise, " I drive. I don't need a driver, I'm retired and do everything myself now." He nodded and understood that concept....
Utpal and I both share a bond in our lack of understanding of each others lives and environs and share the quest to find out more.
He is a proud Bengali. He sees no more future in his life than driving - but feels fortunate his job has lifted him out of the Krusty Oyster hole most of the people linger in.
A good life here for many is one with fewer struggles to stay alive and more certainty about the next meal and a place to sleep. Smiles can come from that low bar by our standards - but happiness can be a relative concept depending on where you are...
Utpal got me from the airport to my hotel and carted me to events. Waited while I partied and got me home safely..with a confident foot on the gas...and no horn....i truly appreciated his skills and delightful company - my regret is that i may have under stood only half of his rich commentary but got all the flavor of my driving master... Utpal Mondval ...another Kolkata pearl
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