Oh Kolkata - I've never been here

So maybe practicing sleep in my recliner chair did work. Or probably getting 10 hours sleep in 3 days paves the way for an upright nap.
But it worked - Emirates Air flight to Kolkata from Dubai was an easy 4 hours.
After a tasty Indian cuisine dinner and my hydration ritual I closed my eyes and was then jogged awake as the noisy air brake gush signaled the approach to Kolkata airport.
I am lugging a roller board carry on bag around the world - avoiding baggage claims if I can. I found it easy to pack as I denounced my slave - to - fashion tendencies ( that I never had anyway)
And bring just enough clothes to recycle easily. Sink laundry with different smelling soaps works for me.  Less cargo  space is the retail therapy antidote. Prevents buying that cool stuff that ends up in boxes next week. 
 Arriving at Kolkata was easier than I thought - my first big warm welcome was offered by a row of folks in surgical masks scanning my body temps- people with high temps were pulled aside and screened more. I filled out a health report vowing i did not sniffle or sneeze and felt good for the last few days..
Welcome to India...
Stamp...stamp - health screen form approved and I was on my way to the next greeter.
 I passed the crowds waiting for bags  (not me) and the porters hustling and bustling trying to persuade the weary travelers to let them carry the bags.... I zipped up to empty lines at PASSPORT CONTROL...
 Stamp..Stamp ....welcome to India
 Next greeter handed me a declaration form I filled out - no drugs - check
No weapons- check  no bad stuff like fruit and seeds - check no wads of cash especially Rupees.- check.... 
  I turned the corner trailing my roller board and with declaration form filled out startled the napping customs official who quickly stood up and looked me over, took my form and with a pause said Welcome to Kolkata - I arrived
 Utpal Mondal - my hero and driver who you will hear more about, greeted me outside and took my bag
Guess what he said. I felt right at home in a very strange place....To me anyway...
  When I arrived at the terminal I perceived the place to be pretty drab and run down looking. Utpal later told me it was their brand new shining star airport - to him a symbol of the brighter future ahead. ....interesting...
  As soon as we turned off the airport property, in the dark of night and drizzle I saw the city I had read about.  Being there does not match the glimpses and senses one gets from distant studious pursuit to understand this place. 
  As I walked out the door a big fat wave of stink hit me. This air here is a dirty smoky, industrial, unregulated thick  gas mix.  After 2 days I am almost used to it unless I go stand near real heavy traffic or a restroom tree.
   Our ride - a dozen miles or so - took better than an hour. No high ways. Dense traffic on tiny streets that I couldn't tell were one way or not - chaos in boundaries describes a ride from the airport.  Seems like all vehicles moving in the chaos lanes have gas pedals and horns.  3 or 4 or 5 rows of traffic, if you can call them rows- move in sync from point to point.  Utpal has mastered driving mostly hornless.
  The streets were dirty, under construction, or not and bumpy.  By the sides of the roads everywhere were piles of dirt, mud, concrete chips and rocks and flying trash snagged on the  textures.  People were everywhere just hanging out in groups. For many that road was their rickety shack living room. Some street vendors have tiny booths that serve as storefront and home - others were congregating near shops, places to eat and bus stops.  I have never seen this many people hanging out in the rain this late.  I can't tell you if that was a fun nite out (January 1 8pm) or every day in the big poor city.
Oh Kolkata - so like and so different from what I expected
   My hotel is rated 5 stars. My vision of the building and environs is based on what I'm used to ( 3 star hotels are usually in my travel budget). Park street is a nice spot relatively speaking compared to many not so nice places here. There is no where like it anywhere I've been...wow.
  What it looks like is different from how it feels in some ways. It is rich in custom, culture and tradition, rich in warmth from so many of the people I've met, rich in texture with a unique feeling vibe. It's richness in good things is offset by its lack of riches by so many of the people here.  That could change, but it looks like a real tough job.
  With the right moves - any place could become Kolkata.  My travel learning goal was to check out spots where things are working and where they arent- good contrasts make good perspectives. 
Oh Kolkata - a place I've never been - and a place where I don't want my country to go.  It may take as much work to dig Kolkata out of its hole then to prevent other places from falling in the same one.
Ruh Roh - just noticed the brevity switch was turned off on my keyboard.
Better vapors to follow this trail....